Ephesus is one of the best-preserved ancient cities in the world, reflecting the richness of Roman, Greek, and early Christian civilizations.
While the Temple of Artemis at Ephesus has fallen on hard times, Ephesus itself is one of the most stunning places I have ever visited.
At first I didn’t have a good sense for what it was about. You go through the entrance gate and see a few ruins and think, “Oh, look at those broken columns, aren’t they picturesque.” Then you keep walking until you crest a hill and the panorama of Ephesus unfolds below you. That’s the moment that makes the breath catch in your throat, when you finally realize that Ephesus is still a Wonder of the World.
Individual pictures don’t do it justice, for it is the sheer size of Ephesus that overwhelms a visitor. As I descended its main street, I passed one incredible marble structure after another—a theater and temple, then a row of wealthy houses, then a brothel and bathhouse.
At the base of the hill stands the façade of a library that once was one of the largest in the world. Turning the corner, I saw an amphitheater built to hold more than 20,000 people. Turning once again, I saw the remains of a marketplace were merchants once traded goods from around the world.
All of these treasures are set in a peaceful valley cradled by low-lying mountains, so that if you squint your eyes just a bit, it’s not hard at all to imagine how it must once have been here, back in the days when pilgrims flocked to the Temple of Artemis and sailing ships filled the harbor below.
The air is clean and fresh and the sun shines brilliantly, and you think, what an incredible thing it is to be standing right here, right now, in this place.
Part of what makes Ephesus so fascinating are its small details. In a row of houses that are being laboriously reconstructed are mosaics that look as fresh and vivid as if their owner had just stepped out to the market to buy olives and bread.
Along the central thoroughfare there’s an etched footprint that directs sailors coming from the harbor to the brothel just up the street. When you stand on the top level of the amphitheater, you can easily hear words said on the stage, proving that the incredible acoustics of the place still resonate.
Ancient Treasures
Excavations at Ephesus have been ongoing for over a century, uncovering its rich history and preserving it as one of the world’s most significant archaeological sites. The work began in the 1860s with British architect John Turtle Wood, who, funded by the British Museum, discovered parts of the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. By the late 19th century, Austrian archaeologists took over, focusing on monumental structures like the Celsus Library and the amphitheater.
Since 1895, the Austrian Archaeological Institute has led excavations, meticulously uncovering and restoring key areas of the city. Early efforts revealed grand public buildings, while 20th-century work expanded to residential areas like the terrace houses, which have provided new insights into daily life.
Modern technology has revolutionized the process. Tools like ground-penetrating radar and 3D modeling have enabled archaeologists to map buried structures and digitally reconstruct iconic landmarks like the Celsus Library. Advanced preservation techniques have ensured delicate artifacts, such as mosaics and frescoes, remain intact.
Today the collaborative efforts of Turkish authorities, Austrian institutions, and international scholars have helped make Ephesus a global treasure. With on-going excavations, the site provides a connection to the ancient world unmatched in the Mediterranean.
Ephesus is a place to walk slowly, drinking in beauty and absorbing its history by osmosis. If there is such a thing as a time machine, I think one boards it in Ephesus.
Lori Erickson is one of America’s top travel writers specializing in spiritual journeys. She’s the author of books that include Holy Rover, Near the Exit, The Soul of the Family Tree, and Every Step Is Home. Her website Spiritual Travels features holy sites around the world.
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