For Christians, the Church of St. Savior in Chora (also known as the Chora Mosque) is one of the most significant sites in Istanbul, second in importance only to Hagia Sophia. For art historians, the Chora Church is a place of pilgrimage as well, for its walls feature some of the world’s finest examples of late-Byzantine art.
Originally constructed as a monastery church in the 4th century outside the city walls of Constantinople, the structure’s name, “Chora,” meaning “country” or “land,” reflects its location at the time.
The current building dates back to the 11th century, with significant restorations and additions in the 14th century under the Byzantine theologian, philosopher, and statesman Theodore Metochites. When he commissioned the interior decoration, he described it as “a work of noble love for things good and beautiful.” Thanks to his patronage, nearly every square inch of the building’s interior was covered by mosaics and frescoes, glittering with gold and sparkling with color.
After 700 years, the building still radiates that love for goodness and beauty. Highlights include the Mosaic of the Virgin Mary in the narthex, depicting her life and miracles, and the Christ Pantocrator dome mosaic, a radiant representation of Jesus surrounded by ancestors. The frescoes in the Parecclesion, the side chapel, showcase vivid scenes of the Last Judgment, emphasizing themes of salvation and divine mercy.
Following the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople in 1453, the church was converted into a mosque in the 16th century, with its Christian imagery covered but not destroyed. In the 20th century, it was secularized and opened as the Kariye Museum, allowing the world to appreciate its Byzantine treasures. In recent years, it has been reconverted into a mosque, though its mosaics and frescoes remain a focal point for visitors.
The Chora Church is a must-see destination for anyone exploring Istanbul’s rich history, offering a unique window into Byzantine religious art and its enduring legacy.
Within a few steps of entering it, I had to fight the urge to simply lie down on the floor and gaze upward, abandoning myself to the loveliness of what was above. Though time has taken its toll on the Chora Church, its interior still dazzles.
Part of what makes the images so compelling are their human details. We can see a serving maid testing the waters of a bath for the baby Anne, who will become Mary’s mother. We watch as a soul being led into hell politely offers his friend the chance to go first. We stand before Jesus at the Last Judgment, his face a blend of suffering and infinite compassion as he gazes upon us.
To me, this place allows divine light to break through into our ordinary world. Thinking back, I realize that my first impulse was right: before such beauty, the only proper response is utter abandonment.
IF YOU GO: Kariye Mosque/Chora Church is closed for visits on Fridays, when it is used for religious services.
Lori Erickson is one of America’s top travel writers specializing in spiritual journeys. She’s the author of books that include Holy Rover, Near the Exit, The Soul of the Family Tree, and Every Step Is Home. Her website Spiritual Travels features holy sites around the world.
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