Touring Amish Country in Indiana

Northern Indiana is one of the best places in the country to learn about Amish and Mennonite traditions. (photo by Elkhart County CVB)

Northern Indiana is one of the best places in the country to learn about Amish and Mennonite traditions. (photo by Elkhart County CVB)

Today’s post–the final in this series–is meant for people who hope to visit northern Indiana in person and not just via The Holy Rover blog. Here are some suggestions to help you plan a trip to this rural area where Amish-Mennonite traditions remain strong:

In Shipshewana, visit the Menno-Hof to get an orientation to the area and a background on Anabaptist traditions (see Among the Amish for more information). Menno-Hof was built in part because of the thousands of visitors who come to town for the Shipshewana Flea Market. The Midwest’s largest flea market is held twice a week from May through October. Over the years so many people at the market asked questions about the lives and customs of the Amish in the area that this information center was proposed. In 1986 hundreds of volunteers helped with a massive barn-raising and the non-profit center has been educating visitors ever since.

Another helpful resource is a free Heritage Trail audio CD with directional cues that will take you on a circular loop through the area. Just pop it into your car stereo and listen to interesting stories and historical tidbits as you drive. Contact the Elkhart County Convention & Visitors Bureau for a copy.

The Heritage Trail will take you through the towns of Goshen, Elkhart, Bristol, Middlebury, Wakarusa and Nappanee. You’ll wind through the heart of the Amish communities, passing fast-trotting horses pulling black buggies and Amish children riding bicycles home from school. If you’re wondering which farms and homes are Amish-owned, just look to see whether there are electrical lines running to the farmstead.

Nearly 20 Quilt Gardens bloom in northern Indiana (photo by Elkhart County CVB)

Nearly 20 Quilt Gardens bloom in northern Indiana (photo by Elkhart County CVB)

This area also has many Amish-owned shops where you can visit with the clerks to learn more about life in this old-fashioned corner of the world. Shop for freshly baked goods and farm-raised produce at local markets, sample the prize-winning cheeses at the Guggisberg Deutsch Kase Hause, and visit one of the many home-based workshops that make heirloom quality furniture. Das Dutchman Essenhaus in Middlebury includes an inn, shops, bakery and a restaurant that serves family-style meals.  And Amish Acres, while not Amish-owned, offers tours of a former Old Order Amish farm, craft demonstrations, wagon rides, a restaurant, and musical theater.

On the Heritage Tour, be sure to visit some of the quilt gardens that bloom in the region during the summer months. Planned by master gardens and maintained as free attractions, these are super-sized versions of traditional quilt squares. The gardens provide another example of how Amish-Mennonite traditions influence the larger culture in northern Indiana.

Goshen, a town of about 30,000, is my favorite of the communities. Its picturesque downtown has historic buildings with locally owned shops, coffeehouses and restaurants. Notice the fortress-like structure on the corner of its courthouse square—the police booth was built in 1939 to protect the local banks from John Dillinger and Pretty Boy Floyd, who had a habit of robbing financial institutions in the region.

Don’t miss the Olympia Candy Kitchen, which opened in 1912 and is still owned by the same Greek-American family. Eat a sandwich at its counter and then sample its tasty hand-dipped candies. On the south side of the downtown, the South Side Soda Shop is a classic diner that sells more than 50 varieties of pie as well as malts, shakes, burgers and fries.

The Old Bag Factory in Goshen houses artists workshops and stores (photo by Elkhart County CVB)

The Old Bag Factory in Goshen houses artists workshops and stores (photo by Elkhart County CVB)

The rich handcraft traditions of the surrounding Amish-Mennonite community, as well as Goshen College’s strong art department, have helped nurture a thriving arts community in Goshen. The Old Bag Factory, originally built in the 1890s as a soap factory, is now home to a variety of workshops and stores operated by local artisans. Sculptor John Mishler creates large kinetic pieces made primarily from stainless steel and aluminum, while potter Mark Goertzen crafts wood-fired pieces in elegant designs. Nearby is a restored 1837 cabin that houses Quilt Designs, makers of custom-made quilts and wall-hangings designed by fiber artists Shirley and Kris Shenk and hand-quilted by Amish and Mennonite women.

You can also tour the campus of Goshen College and visit the Mennonite Historical Library on the third floor of Good Library (I wrote about these archives in my last post). The lower floor of Good Library includes a gallery with rotating exhibits. The current display, which runs until July 12, is of vintage and antique quilts.

For more information (and if you take my advice you’ll plan a trip), contact the Elkhart County Convention and Visitors Bureau.

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Learning from the Mennonites

Not long ago a friend told me about a neighbor who was unexpectedly generous in helping her with a volunteer project, even recruiting her husband to assist. “They’re Mennonite—maybe that has something to do with it,” my friend said.

After visiting the Amish-Mennonite communities in northern Indiana, I think it likely that their religious affiliation has everything to do with it.

While the Amish get most of the attention (those buggies and bonnets tend to draw the eye), the Mennonites are an equally interesting community. You might think of them as cousins to the Amish, as they share a common Anabaptist heritage and many Mennonites have an ancestor who at some point left the Amish church.

But while the Mennonites have similar religious beliefs to the Amish, they don’t have the same firm boundaries in relation to the larger world. They tend to be more accepting of technology and interpret their commitment to simplicity in a greater variety of ways. They may wear distinctive clothing (for example, some Mennonite women wear white caps), but generally you probably wouldn’t be aware that you were speaking to Mennonites unless they told you their religious affiliation.

On the other hand, if you look at what they do, Mennonites are as distinctive as their Amish cousins.

John D. Roth is director of the Mennonite Historical Library at Goshen College. (Bob Sessions photo)

John D. Roth is director of the Mennonite Historical Library at Goshen College. (Bob Sessions photo)

I got the chance to learn about the Mennonites on the campus of Goshen College in Goshen, Indiana. This is the country’s largest Mennonite institution of higher learning. About half of its 1,000 students are Mennonite (while Amish children almost never attend school past eighth grade, the college has also had a few Amish students in its history). The college is home to the Mennonite Historical Library, which has 65,000 books as well as genealogical records, maps, periodicals, quilts, toys, furniture, and folk art.

On my visit I had the privilege of speaking with John D. Roth, the library’s director. When I asked him what were the most distinctive characteristics of the Anabaptist groups, he spoke first about their consistent witness to the gospel of peace. “I think their own history of persecution in Europe has given them a deep empathy for those who are oppressed,” he said. “When they first came to this country, they were moved by the incredible injustices of slavery and began working for the abolitionist cause. And throughout the ensuing years they have often been pacifists and conscientious objectors to war.”

The Mennonite Historical Library is the world’s most comprehensive archives on the denominations that grew out of the Anabaptist tradition. (Bob Sessions photo)

The Mennonite Historical Library is the world’s most comprehensive archive on the denominations that grew out of the Anabaptist tradition. (Bob Sessions photo)

As commentators on this blog have mentioned recently (thank you, Anne), the Mennonites also have a remarkable commitment to helping those in need. These practical and hard-working people are among the first to respond to tragedies and natural disasters and typically remain long after other volunteer groups have left.

“Lay service is part and parcel of the Mennonite faith,” Roth said. “Students at Goshen College, for example, are required to spend a full semester in a developing country. The Mennonites recognize that the Body of Christ knows no boundaries.”

According to Roth, the Mennonites have recently begun to move to an even more active commitment to peace-making. The Victim-Offender Reconciliation Movement (which started in Elkhart, Indiana) is one example of a small-scale Mennonite initiative that has captured the attention of the larger culture.

During my visit to the library, I was able to see one of the rarest and most valuable books in its collection: a 1724 edition of the Martyrs Mirror. First published in 1659, the book describes the sacrifices made by Christian martyrs, particularly those in the early Anabaptist movement. The book became an important devotional manual for the Mennonites and has been especially influential in conveying the principles of non-violent resistance.

The story of Dirk Willems rescuing his attacker continues to inspire Mennonites to this day.

The story of Dirk Willems rescuing his attacker continues to inspire Mennonites to this day.

One of the book’s stories is that of Dirk Willems, a Dutch Anabaptist who died in 1569. Willems was fleeing from arrest by the local authorities when he came to some water thinly covered with ice. While he safely crossed it, one of his pursuers wasn’t so fortunate and slipped into the freezing water. As the man’s companions stood on the shore and refused to come to his aid, Willems stood on the other shore, agonizing about what to do.  Then he recalled the words of Jesus: “Love your enemies; bless them that curse you; do good to them that hate you.” Willems carefully ventured out onto the ice and managed to save his pursuer’s life.

And then, proving that no good deed goes unpunished, Willem was captured, tortured, and put to death by the authorities.

This story has been told and re-told countless times by the Anabaptists. Willem’s steadfast faith and rescue of his persecutor is held up as an ideal to be emulated–and his unjust death is a sober reminder not to expect the world to reward you when you do something good.

I’m going to remember that story the next time I hear of the Mennonites coming to the aid of those in need. Somehow the fact that they treasure this tale makes me think even more highly of these quiet and unassuming people who do so much good.

 

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The Fancy Amish

Northern Indiana is home to more than 20,000 Amish, making it one of the nation's largest Amish communities. (photo by the Elkhart County, IN, CVB)

Northern Indiana is home to more than 20,000 Amish. (photo by the Elkhart County, IN, CVB)

Part Two of Among the Amish in Indiana:

I live near a sizable Amish community near Kalona, Iowa, so I thought I knew quite a bit about Amish life. In Indiana, however, I learned that Amish culture is much more diverse than I realized.

“The communities here are sometimes called the ‘Fancy Amish,’” my guide said. “They tend to be a bit more liberal in how they relate to the outside world, in part because many of them have jobs that require a lot of contact with non-Amish people. Farmland prices are so high that it’s not possible for every family to support themselves in the traditional way.”

I wasn’t surprised to hear that many of these Indiana Amish work in stores, furniture workshops and other small businesses. But would you believe RV factories? The area around Elkhart manufactures about 80 percent of all the RVs sold in the U.S. Many of these enterprises employ Amish men, who are hard-working, highly skilled craftsmen.

Well, once I heard that, I had to take a tour of one of those factories (and as an aside, if you visit this part of Indiana, don’t miss Elkhart’s RV Hall of Fame and Museum, which is great fun and surprisingly interesting).

So there I was, in the Newmar factory that makes luxury motor homes, some of which retail for more than $1 million. And probably half the men working on the factory floor were Amish, with long beards, suspenders, and handmade clothes. When I say working, I mean working. The men practically ran between work stations, keeping up a pace that made me tired just watching them. Our Newmar guide explained that these are highly sought-after, well-paying jobs, and that the Amish workforce is a big reason for the success of the Newmar company. The men (for they’re all male, of course) work incredibly hard with great attention to detail.

The cognitive dissonance made my head spin. Amish men building luxury motor homes? Who woulda thunk it?

The Fancy Amish of northern Indiana blend with the outside world in other ways as well. While many live on farms, others live in the region’s small towns. We passed many modern-style homes that were obviously occupied by Amish families, for they had a buggy parked outside and dark clothes hanging out to dry. In these towns, Amish children often attend public school up until the eighth grade. And I was surprised to see many Amish people riding bicycles. I don’t recall ever seeing that in the Amish communities near my home.

Many of the variations in Amish culture are due to the fact that the Amish have a very decentralized church structure. Local bishops set guidelines on what is allowed and what is prohibited. If families disagree, they may join a district run by another bishop (though that may involve the severing–or at least the straining–of family and community ties).

The Amish relationship to modern technology is a delicate dance, one that is largely determined by these local bishops. Each new technology is met with a question: will this lead to a deterioration of our religious faith and community life? If it will, there are strict guidelines relating to its use. At the same time, the Amish recognize that compromises need to be made and they can’t live a nineteenth-century life in all ways. They don’t use electricity in their homes, for example, but most use bottled gas to operate stoves, refrigerators and water heaters.

The Amish relationship to cars is especially interesting, I think. The website Amish Religious Freedom explains the reasoning behind their prohibition:

By rejecting certain types of modernity and accepting others, some Amish appear to the outside world to be contradicting themselves — hypocrites. However, from the viewpoint of Amish culture, there is no contradiction. One of the more pronounced inconsistencies is the use of an automobile…although he may not own a car, a member may accept rides and willingly hires an automobile with a driver to transport him from place to place. There was little hesitation when the Amish decided no to car ownership. It would separate the community in various ways. If only wealthy members could afford it, the car would bring inequality. Proud individuals would use it to show off their status, power and wealth. Cars would speed things up dramatically, disrupting the slow pace of Amish living. So, they will use them but not own them, for then things will surely get out of control.

Display of Amish clothing at the Menno-Hof in Shipshewana, Indiana (Bob Sessions photo)

Display of Amish clothing at the Menno-Hof in Shipshewana, Indiana (Bob Sessions photo)

The Amish of northern Indiana clearly have more porous boundaries with the modern world than many of their brethren (i.e., those bearded Amish craftsman working in the RV factory). I wonder what the community will be like in 50 years. Will they diverge more from their fellow Amish or will they decide to pull back from the larger culture?

My visit to Indiana makes me think, too, of all the ways in which our technologies shape us in ways we don’t anticipate. I certainly don’t want to give up owning a car, but I’m uneasy about the ways in which some technologies isolate people from each other and the natural world. Instead of relating to those around them, for example, increasingly people bury themselves in their smart phones. When family members each heat up dinner in a microwave and then retreat to their separate TVs, something precious is lost. And when you drive a car to the store instead of bike, you miss the chance to savor the views along the way.

We would do well to heed the Amish example about being careful what technologies we adopt.

 

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Among the Amish in Indiana

Northern Indiana is home to about 20,000 Amish (photo by Elkhart County CVB).

Northern Indiana is home to about 20,000 Amish (photo by Elkhart County CVB).

Last week I had a somewhat surreal writing schedule. In the midst of the news of the bombings in Boston and the hunt for the perpetrators, I was writing about the Amish-Mennonite country of northern Indiana. I’d scan the on-line news for the latest information, and then I’d return to writing about buggies, farms and quilts.

To give you an idea of the contrast, here are some news items from The Budget, a publication I picked up on my trip to Indiana (it serves the Amish-Mennonite communities throughout North and South America):

Middlebury, Indiana: Stephen Yoder was walking with a walking boot Sunday in church on account of an accident at the sawmill, spraining his ankle pretty badly.

Wroxeter, Ontario: We took our lunch along to church on Sunday, and after the service we went to Mount Forest to the home our friends, Eldon and Lena Frey, for an afternoon of singing. They have a large kitchen, and it was full of enthusiastic singers. We sang for several hours. It was so much fun it was hard to stop.

Hillsboro, Ohio: Saturday was the day that the wicked rooster attacked grandson, Myron, 7. He had a red candy stick in his mouth and the rooster jumped on it and broke it in half. The second time around he jumped for his head and got him in the neck. They will now have rooster soup!

The Amish, of course, are not immune to tragedies more wicked than roosters. Recall the terrible shootings that happened in 2006 at an Amish school house in Pennsylvania, for example. At the same time, many of us who live in the non-Amish world look at these tight-knit communities with a kind of wistfulness. Would I like to give up driving a car? Would I be happier as a farmer’s wife, raising a half-dozen children and growing a big vegetable garden? Probably not. But part of me thinks it would not be such a bad alternative, especially in weeks when the news from the outside world is so grim.

So let me tell you a little about what you can do and see if you visit northern Indiana, for even if we can’t join the Amish, we can still learn from them.

More than 20,000 Amish live in Elkhart and Lagrange Counties, making this one of the largest Amish communities in the country. The best place to begin a tour is at Menno-Hof, an information center in the small town of Shipshewana. Built in 1986 by Amish and Mennonite carpenters, the barn-shaped Menno-Hof takes its name from Menno Simons, the founder of the Mennonite movement, and Hof, the German word for farmstead. The building uses exhibits, historical tableaux and audiovisual presentations to give a comprehensive overview of Amish and Mennonite history and traditions.

The Amish and Mennonites trace their origins to the Anabaptist reform movement that began in Switzerland in 1525. Church members wished to return to the simplicity of the earliest years of Christianity. They believed that adults should freely choose baptism as part of a profession of faith and not be baptized as infants. (Anabaptist means “re-baptizer,” a term given to those who chose to be baptized as adults.) The early Anabaptists also refused to serve in the military or swear oaths, and they believed in the (then radical) notion of separation of church and state. Despite their commitment to peace and simplicity, the Anabaptists were violently persecuted by both Catholic and Protestant authorities.

Eventually the movement split into three main groups. The Hutterites immigrated first to Russia and then to the upper Midwest and Montana. The smallest of the three groups, they own all property in common but allow the use of most modern conveniences. The second group, the Mennonites, developed a spirituality and way of life based on strong community ties and a commitment to peace-making and service to others. The final group, the Amish, split from the Mennonites in 1693 because they felt that the church had become too worldly. They reject the use of many modern conveniences, dress very plainly, and have firm boundaries in their interactions with the outside world.

I’ll write more in my next post about the Amish and Mennonites of Indiana. But it makes me smile to think of the Mennonites as being too worldly. Those wild and crazy Mennonites! Who knew?!

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A Temple To Learning

Figure behind the altar at Sage Chapel at Cornell University (Bob Sessions photo)

Mosaic behind the altar at Sage Chapel at Cornell University (Bob Sessions photo)

My last post was on Daniel Klein’s wonderful book  Travels with Epicurus: A Journey to a Greek Island in Search of a Fulfilled Life. Today’s post is a natural follow-up: a chapel where they worship philosophy.

O.K., so that’s a bit of an exaggeration. But until I visited Cornell University’s Sage Chapel in Ithaca, New York, I’d never been to a church that has a figure named Philosophia behind its main altar. What’s more, this thoughtful gentleman is surrounded by beautiful women representing other academic subjects, including mathematics, chemistry, theater, literature and music.

Built in 1873, Sage Chapel was named after Henry Sage, a trustee at the university. Designed by Charles Babcock, a professor of architecture at the university, its mosaics, stained glass, and decorative motifs blend Christian iconography with symbols of learning in a way that totally charmed me.

I don’t think I’ve ever visited a place that so beautifully celebrates the sacredness of learning.  We’ve almost totally lost that sense of the holy in academia, in this era when education is a tangled web of competing and often fractious secular interests. But the ancient Greeks wisely recognized that learning is a sacred endeavor. Education is a process of transformation that has the potential to bring great good to the world–and surely that is a mark of the spirit at work.

I was also intrigued to see an image from the Parable of the Sower above the central altar. Do you know that story? It describes a farmer scattering seed across different types of ground. Some of it falls on the path and some on rocky ground, so these seeds do not grow. Other seeds fall among thorns and are choked by weeds. But some fall on good soil and bear a hundred times what was sown. So it is with the word of God, Jesus says. Much of the time it doesn’t germinate at all or withers away when it faces hardship. But sometimes it lands in the soil of a good and noble heart, someone who by persevering produces a bountiful crop.

Now there’s a parable that fits the scientific method, for it takes a lot of tries to get something right, either in a soul or in a lab. And we need good and noble hearts in our colleges and universities to germinate the seeds of learning so they bear good fruit.

Cornell’s 800-seat chapel is used for ecumenical services as well as weddings, concerts and funerals. But the main reason you should visit is simply to admire its seamless intertwining of spirituality and learning. I doubt that any university could build such a chapel today–there would be too many arguments about what to include and how to picture them–but I’m glad they preserve this building at Cornell University. Its students, whether they realize it or not, are blessed by its presence.

Mosaics at Sage Chapel at Cornell University (Bob Sessions photo)

Mosaic in Sage Chapel at Cornell University (Bob Sessions photo)

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Travels With Epicurus–Part Two

Bust of Epicurus (Wikimedia Commons image)

Bust of Epicurus (Wikimedia Commons image)

Today’s post by Bob Sessions continues yesterday’s book review of Daniel Klein’s Travels with Epicurus: A Journey to a Greek Island in Search of a Fulfilled Life:

I first encountered Klein’s book in a piece he wrote for CNN called Dancing Into Old Age. I was intrigued by what he had to say in the essay, and once I started reading his book, I was hooked from its first pages as well. I can’t recall another book of philosophy that made me smile and laugh as much as this one. He spoke directly to my experiences and delighted me with the easy way he interweaves philosophical teachings with personal anecdotes and stories.

So why should we be interested in a long-dead Greek philosopher who is remembered (if at all) as someone who advocated a hedonistic pursuit of pleasure?

The answer, in part, is that the popular conception of Epicurus is wrong. When many people today hear the word epicurean they imagine someone devoted to pursuing pleasure, especially through the eating of sophisticated and delicious food. While there’s a nugget of truth in this, the full story of Epicurus is much different.

In the third century BCE, Epicurus founded a school (which today we might call a commune) called “The Garden” in Athens. He was a hedonist, yes, but don’t forget that hedonism not only says that pleasure is good, but also that pain is bad. You can maximize your pleasure by seeking pleasure or by reducing pain, or both. A wise hedonist also realizes that some pleasures are better than others, and therefore one must choose them carefully.

A Greek village similar to the one that Daniel Klein writes about in Travels with Epicurus (Wikimedia Commons image)

A Greek village similar to the one that Daniel Klein writes about in Travels with Epicurus (Wikimedia Commons image)

So Epicurus’ two key principles are aponia, the absence of pain, and ataraxia, peace and freedom from fear. He believed that the best way to maximize one’s joy in life is to live simply, which involves reducing your needs and desires (our basic sources of suffering). This frees you to approach whatever you do with full time and attention. For him, this meant being surrounded by friends most of the time. He practiced a radical egalitarianism of both gender and social class, with women as well as men welcome around his table. Klein describes Epicurus’ life this way:

Epicurus was a man who lived his philosophy…He and a small and devoted group of friends lived simply, grew vegetables and fruit, ate together, and talked endlessly–mostly, of course, about Epicureanism. Anyone who wished to join them was welcome, as evidenced by the words inscribed on the Garden’s gate: ‘Stranger, here you will do well to tarry; here our highest good is pleasure. The caretaker of that abode, a kindly host, will be ready for you; he will welcome you with bread, and serve you water also in abundance, [and greet you] with these words: ‘Have you not been well entertained? This garden does not whet your appetite, but quenches it.”

Not exactly a gourmet menu, but the price was right and the company intriguing.

This emphasis on the importance of friendship is one of Klein’s central insights from his time in Greece. Epicurus understood, as psychologists today are only just beginning to realize after extensive study, that our happiness is best found in mutual relationships with no ulterior motives except to enjoy being with each other. In scene after scene in his book Klein describes old friends being together playing cards, dancing, admiring women from afar, sitting together gazing in silence at the sea, and many other simple activities that have the single goal of enjoying life together.

The climactic story of the book is (no surprise here) a Greek feast. What Klein, a secular Jew, comes to realize is that this feast is both democratic and spiritual in the best sense of those words: everyone of good will is welcome, regardless of background or status. What matters is not how “Epicurean” the food or wine, but rather how wonderful the company. And that company is made wonderful when the feast is ruled by Epicurus’ epithet: “It is impossible to live a pleasant life without living wisely and well and justly, and it is impossible to live wisely and well and justly without living a pleasant life.”

My own version of Epicurus’ Garden, I’ve come to realize from reading this book, happens every other week when I meet with a group of men friends over breakfast at a local cafe. Over several years we’ve become friends with the waitresses (they know my order without being told) as well as deepened our ties with each other. Over endless cups of coffee we solve the world’s problems, share our joys and sorrows, and laugh about the absurdities of life. So far none of us has danced on the table, but the amount of pleasure we take in each other’s company might compel us to do so one day.

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Travels With Epicurus

9780143121930_custom-08fa74c184691033799e065a7713b24ad56cd81e-s6-c10My husband and I have been arguing about who gets to write this book review (“I love this book more than you do.” “No, I love it more.”) In the interest of marital harmony, we’re both going to offer our opinions about Daniel Klein’s Travels with Epicurus: A Journey to a Greek Island in Search of a Fulfilled Life. You get my thoughts today, and Bob’s tomorrow.

Let me begin by saying that if you’re under 50 years of age, this is probably not a book for you. But for those of us of a certain vintage, this slim volume offers a wealth of wise advice about living well as we age.

The author takes his inspiration from two main sources: the ancient Greek philosopher Epicurus and his own visits to the Greek isle of Hydra. He begins with this epigram from Epicurus: ”It is not the young man who should be considered fortunate but the old man who has lived well, because the young man in his prime wanders much by chance, vacillating in his beliefs, while the old man has docked in the harbor, having safeguarded his true happiness.”

The book is set during Klein’s most recent visit to Hydra. He brought with him a suitcase of philosophy books (doesn’t everyone?), and the story is sprinkled with his distillations of wisdom from some of the world’s great thinkers. But Klein learned as much from observing the rhythms of village life as he did from philosophers. In writing about the role of play in old age, for example, he recalls seeing a group of men in a taverna:

Daniel Klein

Daniel Klein

Five old men were dancing side by side, connected one to the other by handkerchiefs held in their raised hands. Their craggy faces were tilted upward with what struck me as pride, defiance, and above all, exultation. All of them were straining to keep their backs erect, though none fully succeeded, yet their legs executed the dance’s sideward steps in perfect, graceful synchrony. When, toward the end of the song, the music gradually accelerated, their steps accelerated along with it. For a long moment after the music’s crescendo climax, they remained standing silently next to one another with upraised arms. What I had witnessed, quite simply, was a dance to life–to its endurance in spite of the totalitarian regime in Athens and, ultimately, in spite of the impediments of old age. This was play at its most exalted. I fully understood what Plato meant when he stated that pure play has intimations of the divine.

I appreciated many things about this book. I loved its blend of whimsy and  bittersweetness. I loved the way it celebrates the simple pleasures of life, like eating, drinking good wine, and watching the sunset. I appreciated how it sees old age as a time for savoring and being grateful. But I think what I appreciated most is Klein’s description of the value of friendship. In this he follows the lead of Epicurus, who said, “Of all the things that wisdom provides to help one live one’s entire life in happiness, the greatest by far is the possession of friendship.”

Klein writes that as people grow older, one has fewer friends who are business connections or companions-of-convenience. If you’ve lived well, you’ve come to the point where friends are to be cherished simply for who they are, not for what they can do for you. Those interactions may be casual–the exchange of greetings with shopkeepers and neighbors–or deep and profound. And perhaps the most valuable friends of all are those with whom you can sit in companionable silence.

While Greece certainly has had its economic trials of late, this book celebrates its deep reserves of wisdom about how to live a good life. Read this book. I think you’ll learn something important from it. I know I did.

 

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Leila’s Hair Museum in Independence

Hair wreath from Leila's Hair Museum in Independence (photo by Bob Sessions)

Hair wreath from Leila’s Hair Museum in Independence (photo by Bob Sessions)

I’ve written about a wide variety of topics on the Holy Rover, with one glaring omission: hair. Today that will be remedied by introducing you to Leila’s Hair Museum in Independence, Missouri.

Among the many off-beat museums I’ve visited, I think Leila’s Hair Museum may well be the most unusual. This is the sort of place that you either find fascinating or a bit creepy (actually, I thought it was both, but in the most delightful way).

The museum owes its existence to Leila Cohoon, a retired hairdresser who became fascinated by Victorian hair art decades ago. “I didn’t know such a thing existed until I came across an antique hair ornament in 1956,” recalls Leila. “Here I’d worked with hair all my life and I didn’t realize how it had been turned into an art form by people in the past.”

Leila Cohoon founded the world's only hair museum (photo by Bob Sessions)

Leila Cohoon founded the world’s only hair museum (photo by Bob Sessions)

As the museum shows, people have done truly amazing things with hair over the centuries. What we throw away in wastebaskets was once carefully gathered from the combs of living people and clipped from the heads of the newly deceased. Originating in Europe and reaching its height in the Victorian Age, hair art was primarily a women’s craft, a sign of accomplishment, elegance, and good taste. Women would laboriously braid, weave, mold, and craft strands of hair, using bits of wire to hold the shape. A wide range of items were created, from necklaces, earrings, and watch chains to garlands that were hung on the walls of countless parlors.

During an age in which many people died prematurely and photography was still in its infancy, hair art helped preserve memories. Entire genealogies were done using snippets of hair. Widows would wear mourning rings made from the hair of their dead husbands. They even chopped up hair and mixed it with water to create gloomy scenes of dogs waiting forlornly by their master’s graves and weeping women draped over tombstones (those Victorians did love to wallow in melancholy).

This picture of a baby has genuine human hair (photo by Bob Sessions)

This picture of a baby has genuine human hair (photo by Bob Sessions)

The popularity of the art form was due in part to the fact that both men and women had a lot of hair to work with in the Victorian era, when long tresses were in fashion. And upper-class women in particular often had a lot of free time on their hands. So why not do something with all that hair that would otherwise go to waste?

In 1850, Godey’s Lady Book described the appeal of hair art this way: “Hair is at once the most delicate and lasting of our materials and survives us, like love. It is so light, so gentle, so escaping from the idea of death, that, with a lock of hair belonging to a child or friend, we may almost look up to heaven and compare notes with angelic nature–may almost say: ‘I have a piece of thee here, not unworthy of thy being now.’”

Which brings us back to Leila and her Hair Museum. Humanity owes her a great debt for helping to preserve this nearly forgotten art form. Her museum, which claims to be the only hair museum in the world, has more than 400 hair wreaths and 2,000 pieces of jewelry made from human hair. It includes hair from Ronald Reagan, Elvis, Marilyn Monroe, Abraham Lincoln, and Michael Jackson (“I knew the hairdresser who worked on him after his hair caught fire in that Pepsi commercial,” Leila says). Nearly every piece has a story associated with it, tales that Leila is delighted to share.

Leila's Hair Museum has an array of religiously themed pieces (photo by Bob Sessions).

Leila’s Hair Museum has an array of religiously themed pieces (photo by Bob Sessions).

If you’re interested in learning how to create hair ornaments (and admit it, you’re seriously tempted), you can take classes from Leila. And if you’re in Independence, stop by to visit Leila’s Hair Museum. Sure, there’s something slightly macabre about all those ornate twirls of dead people’s hair, their somber colors reminding us of our own inevitable mortality. But there’s something gloriously quirky about the place too, especially when you visit with Leila and hear how enthusiastic she is about her hobby.

You’re probably wondering what all this has to do with Spiritual Travels. I was wondering the same thing as I toured the museum, until Leila showed me one of her most treasured artifacts: a piece of hair from the Virgin Mary, a relic accompanied by its own official certificate of authenticity.

Friends, it is moments like this that make me believe there is a Higher Power guiding my work.

 

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Zion in Independence

Community of Christ Temple in Independence, MIssouri (photo by Independence MO Tourism)

Community of Christ Temple in Independence, MIssouri (photo by Independence MO Tourism)

Today I want to tell you about a holy city that’s probably not on your list of major religious sites: Independence, Missouri.

Yes, Independence, the town that is most famous for its connection to President Harry Truman. But there’s a lot of spiritual history in this part of Missouri, including a building that’s one of the most remarkable religious structures I’ve ever visited.

Independence’s religious heritage is intertwined with the story of Joseph Smith, Jr., the prophet who received a series of visions in upstate New York in the 1820s that led him to found the Latter Day Saint movement. Smith sent missionaries to Independence in 1831, a time when the town was a rough and rowdy outfitting post for pioneers headed west on the Santa Fe Trail. Within a short time hundreds of Mormons had settled in the area, building homes and establishing businesses. Smith declared Independence to be Zion, the city of God, and placed stone markers dedicating a site for a future temple.

Economic, social and religious differences ignited conflict between the Mormons and other community members. Tensions also arose over the issue of slavery, as many in the area were southern sympathizers while the newcomers hailed primarily from the north. In 1833 armed conflict broke out. The Mormon settlers moved north across the Missouri River, and then in 1835 established new headquarters in Nauvoo, Illinois.

The Latter Day Saints split into several groups after the death of Joseph Smith, Jr. in 1844. While the largest contingent went to Utah under the leadership of Brigham Young and became the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints (LDS), a smaller group eventually coalesced under the leadership of Smith’s eldest son, Joseph Smith III. They established their headquarters in Independence, returning to the spot once designated as Zion by their founding prophet.

In Independence I was pleased to learn more about this denomination, once called the Reorganized Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints but now known as the Community of Christ (a change made in 2000 to better reflect the group’s theology and mission). Think of them as a smaller, more liberal version of the LDS Church. They allow women to be ordained, unlike the LDS Church, and have a theology similar to many mainline Protestant denominations. They place a particular emphasis on peacemaking and justice and number about 250,000 members spread across more than 50 countries.

Independence is thus a pilgrimage site for these two spiritual cousins. On my visit I was intrigued to see how the two branches of the Latter Day Saints faith intertwine here. The Independence Mormon Visitor Center is located just across from the Community of Christ Temple, for example, and people of both denominations visit the other’s landmarks. It’s heartening to see how religious differences can enhance a community, rather than divide it.

Independence is a major site on the pilgrimage trail for the LDS Church, attracting members who wish to trace the early history of their church and the wanderings of its first members from New York to Utah. As in Salt Lake City, I was struck by how the  persecution and hardship endured by the Mormons in their early years helped form them into a strong and committed group (the thought crossed my mind, in fact, that perhaps my own Episcopal denomination could benefit from some old-fashioned oppression).

One place in particular should be on your list to visit if you’re ever in the area: the Community of Christ Temple, one of the most remarkable religious structures I’ve ever visited. Dedicated in 1994 to peace, reconciliation and healing of the spirit, it was designed by architect Gyo Obata. Its tall, swirling stainless steel spire is visible from throughout Independence.

Detail of cut glass in entryway to the Community of Christ Temple (Bob Sessions photo)

Detail of cut glass in entryway to the Community of Christ Temple (Bob Sessions photo)

Tours begin in the temple’s Meditation Chapel, a serene room overlooking a Japanese-style garden, and continue up the Worshippers Path that leads to the main sanctuary. The entryway is made of cut-glass designs symbolizing the forest grove in Palmyra, New York,where Joseph Smith, Jr. had the first revelation that led him to found a new church. From there the Worshippers Path winds upward, passing by works of art that include a granite sculpture with a scene from the story of the Prodigal Son, a Tree of Life sculpture symbolizing diversity, and a granite pool designed to evoke the overflowing love of God, the waters of baptism, and the spiritual water that is available to all.

Once you enter the sanctuary itself, the first thing you need to do is look up—way up. The spire above rises to nearly 200 feet, a spiraling curve that mirrors the shape of a nautilus shell. It’s really quite marvelous, sweeping upwards in great circles so that your eyes seem like they’re peering into infinity. I’ve never seen anything quite like it.

I didn’t get the chance to attend a service in the temple, but I did the next best thing: I lay down in a pew and gazed upward, losing myself in the spiral that seemed to lead into heaven. Would that all churches had such steeples!

(I have more detailed information about religious landmarks in Independence here.)

Interior of the Community of Christ Temple in Independence, Missouri (Lori Erickson photo)

Interior of the Community of Christ Temple in Independence, Missouri (Bob Sessions photo)

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Evangelism Tips from the Anglican Church

We can learn so much from our brothers and sisters in the Church of England (particularly on April Fool’s Day).

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